Why this dish? Why this wine?
The button mushroom tartlet and the Aligoté
At Le Père Joseph, a dish is never conceived on its own. In the kitchen, Fabien Brizeux and his brigade start from the produce and the season. Jemaïa Marty, our general manager, looks for the wine that will answer it. We asked them to explain their choices around a single plate: a button mushroom tartlet, served with a Bourgogne Aligoté.
A dish from November 2026
This tartlet was served in November 2026, à la carte, in the Père Joseph set menu and in the game menu. Our menu follows the seasons, so it may no longer be on it by the time you read these lines. The spirit, however, remains the same. Every plate still comes from the same thinking, shared by our duo and by our whole brigade.
Why this dish?
Mushroom season has arrived. Ceps, chanterelles and morels immediately come to mind. The humble button mushroom, meanwhile, often stays in the shadows.
I wanted to give it the leading role.
Thinly sliced, it rests on a creamy stracciatella, in a light, crisp tartlet. A miso vinaigrette, lightly pralined, brings it all together. A little grated walnut, at the very last moment.
A simple ingredient that we think we know, and yet one that still has a lot to say.
Fabien Brizeux, chef at Le Père Joseph
Photos: Adrien Dupart and Kevin Le Fournis
Why this wine?
Some grape varieties have never truly left their land, even when they were pushed into the background. Aligoté is one of them.
A long-standing companion of Burgundy, this historic grape lived for years in the shadow of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Yet it has kept an identity all its own, another way of reading the Burgundy landscape.
On the slopes of the Côte de Beaune, a few kilometres from Saint-Romain, old vines take root in clay and limestone soils. Plots farmed with passion, where time seems to have preserved what matters most.
I love the idea of a winegrowing heritage that is cared for rather than left to disappear. These old vines, silent witnesses of generations, still have so much to tell.
Perhaps Aligoté never needed to overshadow its neighbours to exist.
Freshness, a touch of flint. The perfect balance between liveliness and delicacy.
Aligoté then brings its breath and its vivacity. It slips between the earthy flavours of the mushroom and the creaminess of the stracciatella.
Jemaïa Marty, general manager of Le Père Joseph
The wine: Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles Vignes 2023, Numa Cornut
A duo, a brigade
Read the two texts again: they tell the same story. The button mushroom in the shadow of ceps, Aligoté in the shadow of Chardonnay. The dish and the wine met on a shared idea: taking seriously what we think we already know.
That is how Le Père Joseph works. Start from a seasonal ingredient, sometimes a modest one. Choose a wine that lights up the plate rather than trying to outshine it. This thinking is shared by the two of them, then with the whole brigade, in the kitchen and in the dining room. The dishes change with the seasons; this way of working stays.
Le Père Joseph holds the Maître Restaurateur title, awarded by prefectural decree to restaurants serving homemade cuisine made from fresh produce.
Visit Le Père Joseph
Address: 4, place Richelieu, 92500 Rueil-Malmaison, about 15 minutes from La Défense
Open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 am to 12:30 am, Sunday from 8:30 am to 8 pm
Booking: +33 1 41 42 50 04 or online
Frequently asked questions
What wine goes with button mushrooms?
At Le Père Joseph, Jemaïa Marty chose a Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles Vignes 2023 by Numa Cornut to accompany the button mushroom and stracciatella tartlet. Its freshness, liveliness and touch of flint slip between the earthy flavours of the mushroom and the creaminess of the stracciatella.
Is the mushroom tartlet still on the menu?
It was served in November 2026, à la carte, in the Père Joseph set menu and in the game menu. The menu changes with the seasons: to find out what is being served right now, see our menu or call +33 1 41 42 50 04.
Who is the chef at Le Père Joseph?
Fabien Brizeux. With his brigade, he creates homemade, seasonal French cuisine at Le Père Joseph, a Maître Restaurateur restaurant in Rueil-Malmaison.
Who is Jemaïa Marty?
The general manager of Le Père Joseph. She chose the Aligoté served with the mushroom tartlet and explains her choice on this page.
Where is Le Père Joseph?
At 4, place Richelieu, in Rueil-Malmaison, about 15 minutes from La Défense.
